Domestic Science
HIL Clean · Library 01 · Free Forever

They took the science.
We're putting it back.

Home Chemistry · SKU Reduction · Principles

In 1882, Ellen Swallow Richards — the first woman admitted to MIT — published The Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. Her argument: a household runs on principles, not products. The industry spent the next 140 years proving her right by selling you the same principle in 47 different bottles.

HIL Clean finishes her argument. Ten raw ingredients. The science behind why they work. An address for where they live.

→ See the Principles The Ten Ingredients ↓
The Origin — 1882

She figured it out
140 years ago.

"The object of this book is to give the housekeeper a knowledge of the chemistry involved in domestic processes, so that she may act from principles and not from recipes alone."
— Ellen Swallow Richards · The Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning · 1882

Richards wasn't teaching cleaning tips. She was teaching why things work — so that a homemaker with washing soda and vinegar could outperform a cabinet full of branded products. The consumer goods industry replaced her principles with recipes, her raw materials with proprietary formulas, and her self-sufficiency with brand dependency.

HIL Clean restores what she built.

1
Like Dissolves Like
Oil stains need oil or a surfactant — not water. Water-based stains need water. Match the chemistry of the cleaner to the chemistry of the stain. This one rule eliminates half the products under your sink.
2
Patience is the Active Ingredient
Every cleaning agent needs time to break the bond before your arm has to do it mechanically. Dwell time replaces elbow grease. The commercial version is watered down precisely because they can't trust you to wait.
3
The Wrong Move Sets the Stain
Hot water on protein cooks it into fiber permanently. Heat before a stain is out bonds it forever. Diagnosis before action. The wrong first move closes the window.
4
Concentrated = Effective = Respect
Commercial cleaners are diluted for safety, not effectiveness. The raw chemistry works better — and requires more awareness. That awareness is what Richards wanted to teach.
5
Fewer SKUs = More Competence
Ten raw ingredients that you understand outperform forty branded products you don't. Knowledge is the most efficient tool in any household. Richards' original argument. Never wrong.
6
Multiple Light Passes Beat One Heavy Scrub
Pre-treat. Walk away. Wipe what lifts. Repeat. Parallel chemistry, minimal labor. Let the chemistry do the first 80%.
The Ten Raw Ingredients

Everything else
is a ratio.

These ten items replace the majority of what's under your sink. One bag of citric acid costs less than one bottle of the branded product it replaces — and makes fifty applications instead of one.

Citric Acid
CHELATING AGENT
Rust removal, descaling, mineral deposits. What's inside Evapo-Rust and most descalers.
Oxalic Acid
IRON CHELATOR
Rust stains on surfaces, countertop spots. The active agent in Bar Keepers Friend.
White Vinegar
ACETIC ACID 5%
Glass, mineral scale, general surface acid cleaning. Safer than ammonia for most applications.
Baking Soda
SODIUM BICARBONATE
Mild abrasive, alkaline agent for tannin stains, odor neutralizer.
Washing Soda
SODIUM CARBONATE
Stronger alkaline than baking soda. Heavy grease, laundry booster, drain cleaning.
Hydrogen Peroxide
OXIDIZING AGENT 3%
Mold, mildew, disinfection, tannin stains. Safer than bleach for most household surfaces.
Isopropyl Alcohol
SOLVENT / DISINFECTANT
Ink, marker, adhesive residue, disinfection. 70% for sanitizing, 90%+ for solvent work.
Dish Soap
SURFACTANT
Emulsifies oil and grease so water can carry it away. Foundation of most cleaning recipes.
Powdered Silica
MICRO-ABRASIVE
Mechanical scrubbing at microscopic level. What makes Comet and similar cleansers work.
Enzyme Cleaner
BIOLOGICAL AGENT
Protein stains — blood, dairy, pet. Breaks peptide bonds. Cold water activates, heat destroys.
+ WATER — The most underrated cleaner in every household. Free. Zero disposal concern. Most everyday spills are water-soluble. Try water and three minutes before anything else.
Recipe Library — Growing

The formula.
Not the brand.

Each recipe includes the active chemistry, dwell curve, surface compatibility, safety notes, and cost vs commercial breakdown. No filler. No brand names.

Interactive Tool · Stain Lookup
WHAT STAIN IS THIS?
protein · oil · tannin · rust · mold · 8 surfaces
FREE TOOL
Select your stain type and surface. Get the exact recipe — active chemistry, dwell curve, procedure, warnings, and proven commercial alternatives. No guessing. No buying the wrong product first.

Covers protein (blood, dairy, sweat), oil/grease, tannin (coffee, wine, tea), rust, mold/mildew, and more — on fabric, carpet, hard floor, wood, grout, stone, and metal.
PROTEIN OIL / GREASE TANNIN RUST MOLD DYE 8 SURFACES DWELL CURVES
Problem → Solution
RUST ON METAL SURFACES
cast iron · carbon steel · antique tools · hardware
Active Agent
CITRIC
ACID
Min Dwell
15
MINUTES
Cost vs Commercial
~90%
CHEAPER
Why It Works

Citric acid is a chelating agent — it binds to iron oxide molecules (rust) and pulls them off the metal surface. The acid doesn't eat the metal, it grabs the rust. Given enough dwell time it does this without any mechanical scrubbing. Same chemistry as commercial rust removers — without the markup.

Ingredients
Citric acid powder1–2 tbspper cup of warm water
Warm waterenough to submergeor saturate surface
Steel wool (optional)0000 gradeonly if dwell time is short
Dwell Curve — Wait vs Scrubbing
0 min
9/10Chemistry hasn't started
15 min
4/10Light scrub, rinse, repeat
30 min
2/10Wipe and rinse
60+ min
1/10Rinse only, almost no scrubbing
Surface Compatibility
✓ Safe On
Cast ironCarbon steelAntique toolsStainless steel
✕ Avoid
AluminumChrome platingGalvanizedPainted surfaces
Respect the Chemistry
CITRIC ACID — HANDLE WITH AWARENESS
Food-grade citric acid is one of the safer acids you'll work with. Concentrated dry powder can irritate eyes and skin — wear gloves for extended sessions. Do NOT combine with bleach. Rinse metal thoroughly after treatment to stop the acid reaction and prevent flash rust.
🧤Gloves recommended for extended soak work
👁️Keep powder away from eyes — rinse with water if contact occurs
⚠️Never mix with bleach — produces toxic chlorine gas
💧Rinse metal immediately after treatment to prevent flash rust
HIL CLEAN · RECIPE #001 · CITRIC ACID RUST ENV RATING: LOW IMPACT
The Math

Fewer SKUs.
Better system.

The fewer items you own, the more powerful your inventory becomes. HIL Clean reduces what you own to a small number of high-competence raw ingredients. The HL System gives each one a permanent address.

× The Consumer Model — Under Your Sink Now
Bathroom cleaner spray
Kitchen degreaser spray
Glass cleaner
Tub and tile cleaner
Toilet bowl cleaner
Mold and mildew spray
Carpet stain remover
Fabric stain remover
Pet stain remover
Rust remover
Drain cleaner
...and 6 more half-empty bottles
~17 SKUs · ~$180/year · High friction · High mental load
✓ The HIL Clean Alternative
Citric acid (bag)
Oxalic acid (bag)
White vinegar (jug)
Hydrogen peroxide (bottle)
Dish soap (bottle)
Baking soda (bag)
Isopropyl alcohol (bottle)
Enzyme cleaner (bottle)
+ this free tool to know what to use when
8 SKUs · ~$30/year · Zero mental load
THE FULL LOOP
HIL Clean reduces what you own to 8 high-competence raw ingredients organized into kits. The HL System gives each kit a permanent address. You don't inventory 17 products. You inventory 8 kits. The kit implies the contents. The address tells you where it lives.

Nothing new. Everything restored.
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